Travel

Partington Cove: Tanbark Tunnel to the Sea

If you have ever wished to find pirates or buried treasure in the Monterey area, your best bet is Partington’s Cove. I think the name should be changed to Pirate’s Cove because it resembles something out of Robert Louis Stevenson’s Treasure Island. It is located 1.8 miles north of the entrance to Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, and 6 miles south of Nepenthe. It is easy to pass by due to poor signage. Look for the trailhead turn-off inside a hairpin turn on the west side of Hwy 1. Once you reach the trailhead, follow the half-mile dirt trail downhill. At the bottom, it splits into two trails. Turn left at the bottom and cross a wooden footbridge above Partington Creek.
Follow the path along, and you will see a 100-foot-long tunnel bored through rock. The tunnel was constructed in the 1880s by homesteader John Partington, to enable the transport of lumber from the tanbark forest above the canyon to ships moored in the cove. Tanbark provided the tannins necessary to tan hides into leather. Mules were used to haul the lumber down the canyon to the ships.
 You can still see remnants of iron and wood structures used to moor the ships in the cove. You can also see tangled kelp forests as they sway gently in much of the cove. I imagine what it must have been like to see a ship moored here. It seems to me that swashbucklers could have been here. I can almost hear them chanting “Fifteen men on a dead man’s chest, yo-ho-ho and a bottle of rum!” Speaking of rum, Partington Cove also has been rumored to be affiliated with Prohibition bootlegging ventures, but this has never been substantiated.
As you return and cross back over the footbridge, instead of turning right to return up to Hwy 1, turn left. Following this will lead you to a beach where Partington Creek cascades and spills over stony boulders and rocks into the ocean. It is a wonderful place to sit and reflect. As the waves crash onto the sandy shore, I think I hear a parrot shrieking “pieces of eight!”  But I  am shocked out of my reverie when I realize it is my friend calling me, “we’ll be late!”  He has been thinking he saw a mermaid in the cove!
Whether you like pirates or mermaids, experience Partington Cove yourself and let me know what you think.  Adventure awaits!
Wishing you peace, love, happiness, and beautiful vistas!

Living life simply on a small farm in Monterey County.

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