Food
Delicious recipes
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Nepenthe’s Phoenix: Bohemian Bliss in Big Sur
Nepenthe is an ancient Greek word meaning an elixir for sorrow, literally, a “drug of forgetfulness”. And sorrow you will indeed forget when you see the jaw-dropping panoramic view of the Big Sur coastline at this iconic restaurant. Nepenthe started out as a very simple cabin in 1925, located downhill from the log house where writer Henry Miller lived. Orson Welles bought the cabin as a gift for his new bride, the movie star and World War II pinup girl Rita Hayworth. Unfortunately, the relationship failed, and the Big Sur cabin was abandoned. After Welles and Hayworth divorced, Bill and Madelaine “Lolly” Fassett, with five children in tow, purchased the cabin and 12 acres for $12,000. They employed Rowan Maiden, an apprentice of Frank Lloyd Wright, to create Nepenthe. Redwoods hewn from area canyons and hand-made adobe bricks were used. Nepenthe opened in 1949 with an open terrace design so that people could enjoy drinking, eating, reading poetry and dancing under the open sky.
Nepenthe became a place for creative expression and bohemian culture for people who enjoyed living freely and had disdain for traditional societal propriety. According to “Nepenthe Big Sur Stories and Folktales” (see Nepenthe Stories), visitors arrived from all over the world; “vagabonds, poets, artists, lovers… when there were fewer people on the coast, when nights were longer and days lonelier, Nepenthe was a place to gather”. Famous visitors included Henry Miller, Anais Nin, Man Ray, Ernest Hemingway, Joan Baez, Kim Novak, Steve McQueen, Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor. The latter two performed scenes for the 1965 film, “The Sandpiper”, at Nepenthe. Even today, Nepenthe continues to invoke the spirit of the previous beatnik and hippie cultures.
The Phoenix Shop opened in the 1960s, featuring gifts and local artwork, pottery, books, candles, clothing, hand-knitted hats, and jewelry. Café Kevah opened in 1992 above the gift shop and offers a great place to grab brunch.
When you first enter the Nepenthe terrace, you see a five-foot-tall rising phoenix with bronze feet, the symbol for Nepenthe. This was created from a huge live oak originally growing here. When it died, sculptor Edmund Kara transformed the tree’s trunk into this amazing sculpture.
If you visit Big Sur and want to check out Nepenthe, one caveat is that they are crazy busy on the weekends. It is not unusual to find the parking lot full and cars parked for a half mile down Hwy 1! If you are able to get seating, I recommend the outdoor counter overlooking the beautiful view (except on foggy days such as in this photo!).
Hours are as follows:Nepenthe – open daily 11:30am -10:00pmCafé Kevah – open daily 9:00 am-4: 00 pm (weather permitting)Phoenix Shop – open Daily from 10:30am-7:00pmNote that they do not take reservations unless it is for a large group.
Nepenthe is located on Hwy 1, about 30 miles south of Carmel, near the Ventana Inn and Post Ranch Inn. You will see the Nepenthe sign on the west side of the highway. Make sure to check road conditions before you go, it is easy to do. Go to the CalTrans website here caltrans.ca.gov and enter 1 (the highway number) then search. Or you may phone 800-427-7623. Wishing you beautiful vistas, peace, love & happiness! -
Big Sur River Inn: Dip Your Toes in the River
The venerable Big Sur River Inn is perched on the banks of the Big Sur River. It began humbly in 1934, when Ellen Brown opened the inn and began serving hot apple pie to guests. Her famous apple pie, which is still on the menu today, gave the place its original name, “Apple Pie Inn”. Ellen was a descendant of the famous Pfeiffer family for whom a park and beach are named.
The Big Sur River Inn is now known for its famous Adirondack chairs in the river. Yes, IN the river. I must add that the river is so shallow, a chicken could wade across and get nary a feather wet. It is also well shaded and lined with gorgeous smooth river stones. You can take your glass of wine or bottle of beer and sit IN THE RIVER with your family and friends. You will love dipping your toes in the cool and crystal clear water. Could there be anything more idyllic on a hot day? Big Sur River Inn is located on the west side of Highway 1 and is surrounded by lush forestry and campgrounds. Its central location makes it an ideal place from which to explore Big Sur’s redwoods, hidden coves, and famous landmarks. It is less than 3 miles from Big Sur Station, Andrew Molera State Park, and Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park.
Since I am a local resident, I have never stayed at the Inn, but I have eaten at their restaurant and the food is amazingly delicious. They offer breakfast, lunch and dinner menus. You may choose to eat indoors in their rustic cabin-like dining room, on their lovely deck, or in those famous chairs in the river. Big Sur River Inn clearly take pride in their landscaping, so that in every direction you look you see a beautiful floral vista. There are also a myriad of wildlife here. During my most recent visit, I was serenaded by a group of gorgeous blue Steller’s Jays as they socialized on the river bank.
On Sunday afternoons, there is live music on the riverside deck. There is also a gas station (the only one for miles) and a small general store with food and camping supplies on the premises. For more information see River Inn. If you are searching for a down-to-earth, affordable, fun and relaxing place to visit, I would highly recommend the Big Sur River Inn!
Thank you for visiting my blog! Wishing you peace, love, happiness, & beautiful vistas! -
Old Monterey Farmer’s Market on Alvarado Street
The sights, sounds and smells of the Old Monterey Farmer’s Market on Alvarado Street entice your senses the moment you get near. Vendors line the street selling fresh organic Medjool dates, turnips, carrots, broccoli, cauliflower, lettuce, artichokes, persimmons, lemons, grapefruit, apricots, almonds, raspberries & strawberries. Buckets of colorful flowers are scattered nearby. Street musicians play eclectic melodies on guitars, mandolins and violins as dogs lie dolefully next to them. Walk further along, and you will hear the crackling sound of Edith Piaf tinkling in the air. A man in a brown hat is playing very old records on an antique Victrola he has set up curbside.
Life seems genuine and easy here, and you can slowly peruse everything pervading your senses. Two young girls are selling pineapple flavored cotton candy. There is a woman selling hats and another with hand-made jewelry. Next to her, a man hawks his organic eggs and glass jars of local honey. A grizzled fellow with exotic red and blue parrots and white cockatoos stands on the corner. Local bakeries have set up tables filled with pastries, baklava, donuts, cookies, cupcakes, churros, biscotti, pies, brownies, muffins and more. There is the smell of tamales, fried squid, and falafel melding in the air. In Monterey, variety is indeed the spice of life. You will find every cuisine here, including Indian, Mexican, Japanese, French, Cuban, Italian, Greek, Lebanese, Thai, & Korean, to name but a few.
Cannery Row and Fisherman’s Wharf are great, but if you are visiting Monterey and really want the whole Monterey cultural experience, you really have to check out the Old Monterey Farmer’s Market. It is located on Alvarado Street between Del Monte and Pearl every Tuesday. Hours are October through April: 4:00-7:00 pm and May through September: 4:00-8:00 pm. You will NOT be disappointed! For more information, see oldmontereyfarmersmarket
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The Strange Saga of Monterey Jack
When I first moved to the Monterey area I joined a hiking group. One of the places we went hiking was Jack’s Peak Park, which includes acres of hiking trails through Monterey pine forest and a lovely vista of the Monterey Bay. It was during a hike at Jack’s Peak that I first heard the story of Monterey Jack. Being a former cheesehead and a cheese lover, I wanted to learn more. David Jacks, for whom the park was named, was a much hated land baron in the area. He was also a cheese baron. He owned 14 dairies and mass produced the cheese we know and love. And just as his method of attaining land remains dubiously questionable, so does his right to claim the name of this cheese. Some say that he copied the recipe from Franciscan monks who brought it from Mexico in the 1700s. Others say he swindled the recipe from other local cheese artisans. Unfortunately, we will never know. But we can still be grateful that, whatever its name, Monterey Jack cheese tastes delicious.
Here is one of my favorite comfort foods using this scrumptious cheese!
Monterey Mac & Jack
1 lb. elbow macaroni
4 cups milk
4 cups Monterey Jack cheese, grated
2 cups sharp cheddar cheese, grated
1 stick butter (8 Tbsp)
1/2 cup flour
1/2 tsp black pepper
Optional:
(1)14.5 oz. can diced tomatoes, drained
(1)7 oz. can diced green chiles, drained
- Cook macaroni per package directions.
- Melt butter on low heat, whisk in flour and gradually add milk, stirring constantly.
- Add cheese and pepper, blending until creamy and smooth
- Fold in cooked and drained macaroni
- Place in buttered casserole or baking dish
- If desired, top with tomatoes and chilesBake at 375 for 35 minutes or until top is bubbly and golden.
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The Art of the Artichoke
If you are from the midwest, chances are, like me, the closest you have been to an artichoke is eating the spinach artichoke dip at your nephew’s graduation party. In the Monterey area, however, artichokes are big, so big that they have an annual artichoke festival. It is actually an artichoke and WINE festival, because hey, what is a festival without wine? If you are in the Monterey area this weekend you should check it out! it is being held at the Monterey County Fair & Event Center. I went last year and the highlights for me were eating the fried artichoke hearts (super yum!) and listening to chefs from local restaurants discuss the proper way to cook fresh artichokes. To me, this was important, because the first time I tried cooking them it was a disaster. I learned that you do not boil them, you STEAM them. Eating them was also a novel experience. Here’s how: you take a leaf from the cooked artichoke, put the base of the artichoke leaf in your mouth, put your bottom and top teeth together, and slowly pull the leaf out, skimming the savory artichoke goodness off the leaf. The artichoke is actually the official state vegetable of California, and did you know? Nearly two-thirds of America’s artichokes are grown in Castroville, a small town located north of Monterey. Another interesting fact: Marilyn Monroe served as honorary queen of the Artichoke Festival in 1948 before she became famous.
One of my favorite ways to eat artichokes is in Lemon Chicken Artichoke Soup. My friend Anushka (yes, I named my goat after her) actually told me about this delicious recipe and I adapted it. If you need a light and nourishing soup to warm your spirits this is it!
Monterey Farmgirl’s Lemon Chicken Artichoke Soup
1 lb. skinless chicken breasts, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 leeks, sliced
2 tbsp olive oil
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 bay leaf
(1) 14 oz. can artichoke hearts, drained
4 cups chicken stock
1 cup kale leaves, torn
Juice of 1 lemon
1-2 tsp. thyme, chopped
Pepper to taste
Instructions:
- In a large pot, sautee the leeks in the olive oil for about 5 minutes, or until they are tender and start to turn golden.
- Add the chicken, garlic, bay leaf, artichoke hearts, chicken stock, kale, and thyme and bring to a simmer, cooking for 30 minutes.
- Add the lemon juice and pepper
